Undercover AAT Kings: New Zealand’s Southern Spectacular

Transcript from a recent Freedom Destinations podcast

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Richard: Good morning, good afternoon or good evening, wherever you are tuning in from. Welcome to the latest in our Freedom Destinations’ “Top Travel Tips” podcast series, where we go behind the scenes on some of the world’s great holiday destinations, with the people that know them best.

This week I am delighted to be joined by a very special guest. As well as being a friend of Freedom Destinations, Gary Skilling’s day job is the UK Sales Manager for AAT Kings. Welcome Gary!

Gary: Well, thank you, Richard. This is exciting, isn’t it? I haven’t done anything like this before.

Richard: Don’t worry, we’ll be gentle with you, and you have a great story to tell! So, lets get into it… Gary has just returned from a couple of weeks in New Zealand, where he joined AAT Kings’ tour of the South Island, ‘Southern Spectacular’. And here’s the thing, Gary was doing this incognito as a ‘Mystery Shopper’. Gary, I think you need to explain yourself.

Gary: (Laughing) Well the game’s up now, isn’t it Richard? So I was travelling as a mystery shopper, not as an AAT Kings member of staff. None of the other guests knew who I worked for, the driver didn’t know, the Tour Director didn’t know, and I’ll be honest, I’m slightly terrified he might listen to this podcast. So, Nathan, if you’re out there, you were magnificent. You’ve nothing to worry about.

Richard: (Laughing) So you were genuinely undercover? That’s a bit James Bond, isn’t it?

Gary: In reality, it means I was just another guest. I did book under my own name, and I experienced everything exactly as our customers experience it, from the welcome meeting on day one right through to the farewell dinner on the last night. No special treatment, no heads-up to the team. If something was great, I wanted to know it was great for everyone. And if something wasn’t quite right, I needed to see that too.

Richard: And for anyone tuning in who isn’t familiar with the ‘Southern Spectacular’ tour, can you give us an outline of what it’s like and where you go?

Gary: Of course. It’s a ten-day guided coach tour covering over 2,200 kilometres around the South Island of New Zealand. You start and finish in Christchurch, and in between you visit the Canterbury Plains, Lake Tekapo, Twizel, Dunedin, Te Anau, Piopiotahi (Milford Sound), Queenstown and the West Coast glaciers. You finish with a journey on the TranzAlpine train back over the Southern Alps. It is a spectacular itinerary, and I say that as someone who grew up in Scotland and has seen a mountain or two.

Richard: (Laughing) Ah yes, well I was going to come to that. Everyone can hear that you’re Scottish, Gary. You’ve got the Highlands on your doorstep. Did New Zealand have anything to compare?

Gary: Right, so this is a big question, and I want to be diplomatic about it because I’m a proud Scotsman. The Scottish Highlands are genuinely one of the most beautiful places on earth, I’ll never tire of visiting Glencoe and the Cairngorms. But… New Zealand’s South Island is something else entirely. The scale is just incomprehensible until you’re standing in front of it. The peaks are high, the glaciers are right there, coming down the mountainside, and the colour of the lakes, well, make Loch Ness look a little muddy.

Richard: (Laughing) I suspect the Scottish Tourism Board will not be thanking you for that, Gary.

Gary: They’ll be fine. Scotland’s got the whisky. New Zealand can’t compete on that front, though they’re giving it a good go, as it happens. Maybe we’ll talk about that later.

Southern Spectacular Day 1: Arriving in Christchurch

Richard: Let’s go through the tour day by day. Talk me through arriving in Christchurch.

Gary: Day one is what AAT Kings calls the arrival day. I had just arrived after a long flight, so was pretty tired, but there’s a short welcome meeting where you get to meet your fellow travellers and your Tour Director. Ours was Nathan, and I knew within five minutes we were in excellent hands. He was warm and funny. When you’re travelling as a mystery shopper, that first impression of the Tour Director is crucial, because they set the tone for the entire trip.

Richard: And what sort of group did you have on tour?

Gary: It was a genuinely international crowd, which is one of the lovely things about escorted touring, we had guests from the USA and Canada, Australia, and others from the UK. Plenty of stories to share and memories to make. By the end of the trip these folk felt like old friends. We had dinner that first evening at The Rockpool in Christchurch; lovely food and a glass of wine followed by an early night.

Southern Spectacular Day 2: Christchurch to Twizel

Richard: Day two. That’s when the tour really starts, isn’t it?

Gary: It absolutely is. We started with a drive around Christchurch itself, which I’d really encourage people to engage with as it helps you get your bearings. The city has been rebuilt a lot since my last visit and the earthquakes of 2010/11, and there’s a real resilience to the city that’s quite moving. Although we were on a tour, there was quite a bit of free time built in, so I headed off to the Botanic Gardens and the Art Centre before rejoining the coach to head out across the Canterbury Plains.

Richard: And it wasn’t long before the mountains appeared?

Gary: Very quickly. We stopped for lunch in Geraldine, and I have to mention the meat pie from ‘Berry Barn Bakery’, because I’m still thinking about it now, and I’ve been home for weeks. Mmm, exceptional. Then we drove on to Lake Tekapo, which is such an impossibly vivid turquoise colour that it looks Photoshopped, even when you’re looking at it through your own eyes!

Richard: And then there was a rather special afternoon tea experience, wasn’t there?

Gary: This was one of the highlights of the entire trip. AAT Kings includes what we call a ‘Be My Guest’ experience, where you visit a local family in their home. We had afternoon tea with Ange and Stan Taylor on the banks of Lake Tekapo. Ange is something of a local legend, the ‘Pavlova Queen’ they call her, and it was just this wonderfully warm, personal experience that you simply cannot organise independently. That’s the thing about a guided tour that people sometimes underestimate, it’s not just the logistics it sorts out for you, it’s the unique experiences they offer.

Richard: And the evening brought its own special moment, I believe?

Gary: It did. We continued to Twizel, stopping at Lake Pukaki with views towards Aoraki (Mount Cook), New Zealand’s highest peak. It was hiding behind cloud when we arrived but, as you know, in New Zealand the weather changes quickly, so after dinner, a few of us walked to the edge of the hotel grounds, and there it was; Mount Cook lit up pink and gold by the setting sun. Now, we’ve got Ben Nevis back home. I love Ben Nevis. But Mount Cook at 3,724 metres, glowing in that evening light… I’ll be honest, I got a bit emotional. Don’t tell anyone.

Richard: (Laughing) Your secret’s safe with us, Gary. Completely safe.

Southern Spectacular Day 3: Twizel to Dunedin via Oamaru

Richard: Day three takes you across to the east coast and down to Dunedin. Now, Dunedin is sometimes called the Edinburgh of the South, which must have felt a little like coming home for you?

Gary: (Laughing) It’s called that for a reason, Richard, as it was largely settled by Scottish immigrants, and you can feel it in the architecture. The railway station is this incredible Victorian Renaissance building, absolutely stunning. Wandering around Dunedin, seeing the occasional Scottish place name… I felt very at home. Although I have to say, Edinburgh’s Castle might have something on Dunedin’s skyline.

Richard: And there were some rather impressive optional activities in Dunedin?

Gary: Two crackers. The first was a visit to Dunedin Craft Distillers, and this is where the Scotland comparison gets interesting again. We have a proud whisky tradition at home, obviously, but Dunedin Craft Distillers are doing something quite brilliant and innovative: they take unsold baked goods, bread, cakes, pastries etc. from local bakeries, supermarkets, and restaurants, and distil them into craft gins. It’s an AAT Kings ‘Make Travel Matter’ experience, promoting local and sustainable experiences. And absolutely delicious as well. I was very thorough in my research!

Richard: (Laughing) I’m sure you were. And the second activity?

Gary: We drove out along the Otago Peninsula, a lush, dramatic headland, to board a Monarch Wildlife Cruise. The Otago Peninsula is home to the only mainland albatross colony in the world, and we got to see them properly at close range. We also spotted fur seals, tiny little blue penguins, and a dolphin, although I’ll be honest, the dolphin moved considerably faster than my camera skills could handle!

Southern Spectacular Day 4: Te Anau & Fiordland National Park

Richard: Day four and you’re heading towards Fiordland now. That’s serious mountain country.

Gary: Serious mountain country is exactly right. And as we drove through Central Otago towards Te Anau, crossing the Clutha River, which our Tour Director Nathan cheerfully informed us is the Kiwi equivalent of the River Clyde, the landscape starts to shift. The hills get bigger, the valleys get deeper.

Richard: And on arrival in Te Anau there was an included jet boat experience?

Gary: Along the Waiau River to Lake Manapouri. Our boat captain was Alex, and she was an absolute character, genuinely one of those people who elevates an experience from excellent to unforgettable. Fast, dramatic, spectacular scenery. I’d put that in my top five moments of the whole trip. Alex also pointed out scenery featured in the Lord of the Rings films, and there were several, but I’m afraid I’m not a Tolkien aficionado, so that was largely lost on me.

Richard: (Laughing) I think you might be in the minority there. Was there anything that didn’t go to plan?

Gary: This is where mystery shopping gets genuinely useful, Richard, because part of what I’m assessing is how the team handles unexpected events. I had booked the optional evening excursion to the Te Anau Glowworm Caves, which was disrupted due to flooding from the heavy rain the night before. Completely beyond anyone’s control, but what impressed me was how easily Nathan handled it. He was like our personal travel concierge, giving clear and regular updates, and ensuring that all customers had no stress or fuss. That’s the mark of a professional Tour Director.

Southern Spectacular Day 5: Piopiotahi (Milford Sound) & Queenstown

Richard: And then the headline act… Milford Sound.

Gary: Milford Sound or Piopiotahi in Māori. I’ve been fortunate enough to travel quite a bit, but I don’t think anywhere has stopped me in my tracks quite like Piopiotahi (Milford Sound). We snaked through the Fiordland National Park by coach, and the scenery builds and builds. The mirror lakes, the mountains, and then there it is… Sheer cliff faces rising over a kilometre straight out of the water, waterfalls cascading down, and the fiord stretching out ahead of you.

Richard: It is amazing, isn’t it? And I’ve heard that it’s actually even more dramatic in the rain, is that right?

Gary: It was raining, and I can confirm that is absolutely true. In dry weather you have the permanent waterfalls; Stirling Falls and Lady Bowen Falls. But when it rains, hundreds of temporary waterfalls appear all the way down the cliff faces. The whole fiord comes alive. Despite wearing waterproofs, I was soaked to the skin within about ten minutes of being on deck, but I didn’t care one bit. I think my jeans took three days to dry out afterwards. Worth every moment.

Richard: And there was a wildlife encounter after leaving the sound?

Gary: (Laughing) The Kea! We had to wait at traffic signals going through the Homer Tunnel. It’s a single-track tunnel blasted right through the mountain. While we were sitting there, a kea appeared right beside the coach. A kea is a native alpine parrot, notorious for being mischievous. This one was sizing us up, presumably to assess whether we had any food, or whether any part of the coach was worth stealing. They are brazen. Pure comedy. We’ve got red squirrels and ospreys at home that are charming, but nothing quite as confident as a kea.

Richard: And on to Queenstown, how did the evening there pan out?

Gary: The drive into Queenstown along Lake Wakatipu with The Remarkables mountain range on one side is beautiful. After a big day at Piopiotahi (Milford Sound), I’ll confess that dinner was a Fergburger eaten in my hotel room watching a movie, and I refuse to apologise for that! Fergburger is one of the greatest burgers on the planet, it was as good as I remembered from over fifteen years ago, and sometimes after a day like that, the sofa and comfort food is exactly the right call.

Richard: It’s a very glamorous life you lead, Gary.

Gary: (Laughing) The mystery shopper’s lot.

Southern Spectacular Day 6: Queenstown Sightseeing

Richard: Was day six a full day based in Queenstown?

Gary: A fantastic day. We had booked an optional morning excursion with Nathan to Skippers Canyon, which is a dramatic gorge carved out by the Shotover River, rugged, gold-rush-era country, stunning views from an old bungee bridge. Another jet boat in the canyon, which had the fastest turns of anything on this trip. And Queenstown itself is just a beautiful, energetic little town.

Richard: And then the evening, which I believe was one of the big set pieces of the whole tour?

Gary: The TSS Earnslaw cruise to Walter Peak Station? This was absolutely magnificent. The TSS Earnslaw is a twin-screw steamship, the ‘Old Lady of the Lake’, that’s been sailing on Lake Wakatipu since 1912. You board in Queenstown and steam across to Walter Peak High Country Farm on the far shore. There’s something about a historic steamship on a mountain lake that is just deeply romantic.

Richard: And the station itself?

Gary: A lovely BBQ-style dinner, a farm show where the sheepdog demonstrated its herding skills (as a Scotsman, I’m required by law to have an opinion on sheepdogs, and this one was exceptional), and then a sing-along around the piano on the return journey. Wholesome, charming, and genuinely joyful.

Southern Spectacular Day 7: Queenstown to Waiau (Franz Josef)

Richard: Is day seven a big travel day heading north to the West Coast?

Gary: Big and beautiful. Big and beautiful, but our teams always break those longer journeys with regular rest stops at points of interest that become hidden gems for our guests. We stopped first in Arrowtown, a quaint gold-rush-era village with a lovely main street, and a small rabbit who appeared and seemed entirely untroubled by the presence of a coach full of tourists. Then on to Mrs Jones’ Fruit Stall & Garden, which is one of those unexpected gems that guided touring throws up, gorgeous fresh produce and colourful grounds that just lift your spirits.

Richard: And then it’s up into the mountains again?

Gary: Across the Haast Pass through the Southern Alps, and this, Richard, is where I had to admit that Scotland simply doesn’t have an answer. The Cairngorms are wonderful, the Grampians are dramatic, but the Haast Pass is on a different scale altogether. Ancient rainforest on one side, glacial rivers on the other, and the road snaking through passes that feel full of geological drama. Lunch was by a fireplace in a café in Makarora, complete with a very relaxed resident dog, and then our third jet boat of the trip, the Haast River Safari through the valley.

Richard: And then on to glacier country?

Gary: By the evening we’d arrived in Waiau (Franz Josef), and despite the clouds, a short walk to the viewpoint rewarded us with a view of the glacier high in the mountains. As someone who’s seen shrinking glaciers all around the world, and they are sadly retreating, seeing a glacier of that scale so close is both magnificent and sobering.

Southern Spectacular Day 8: Waiau (Franz Josef) to Punakaiki

Richard: We are already on day eight, but I understand that the weather changed your plans again?

Gary: They did. Low cloud meant that I couldn’t take the morning helicopter flight over the glaciers that I had planned to book, but this is where I want to make an important point, Richard, because as a mystery shopper I’m assessing the whole experience, not just the highlights. Even without the helicopter, the West Coast delivered. As we headed north towards Hokitika the clouds parted, and the sun came out, so we actually had a gorgeous day; lunch in Hokitika, time to explore the beautiful pounamu, jade and greenstone shops, and a walk on the beach. New Zealand’s jade is extraordinary, by the way. We have cairngorm stones and Highland gems back home, but pounamu has a depth and colour that’s quite different.

Richard: And the final overnight stop before heading back to Christchurch?

Gary: Punakaiki. And this one genuinely surprised me. It’s a small town on the West Coast that most people haven’t heard of, but it’s home to the famous Pancake Rocks and blowholes. Those limestone formations that have been eroded over millions of years into these extraordinary layered shapes along a a dramatic coastline. And the Scenic Hotel Punakaiki is right on the beach. We had drinks on the terrace watching the sun go down over the Tasman Sea, dinner in the ocean-view restaurant, and the local Weka birds, cheeky little flightless birds, were trotting along the coastal path with us. The West Coast of New Zealand is genuinely one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline I’ve ever seen.

Southern Spectacular Day 9: The TranzAlpine and Farewell

Richard: The final day of the tour and the famous TranzAlpine train back to Christchurch?

Gary: The perfect send-off. But we started the morning in Greymouth with a visit to Pounamu Pathway, which gives you a genuine and beautifully presented understanding of the Māori history of the region. It includes the stories of the local iwi (Māori community) and their connection to the pounamu greenstone that’s been so significant to this part of the South Island for centuries. It’s one of those experiences that adds real depth and context to everything you’ve been seeing across the week.

Richard: And then the train?

Gary: We boarded the TranzAlpine at 2pm, and this is one of the world’s great train journeys, Richard. Back through Arthur’s Pass and the Southern Alps to Christchurch. It was grey and rainy for a good part of the journey, classic West Coast weather, but the scenery through those mountains is extraordinary even in poor conditions. New Zealand has a way of being beautiful in all conditions. I kept thinking of the West Highland Line back home, Fort William to Mallaig, another great scenic railway, and the TranzAlpine has that same quality of delivering landscapes you couldn’t see any other way.

Richard: And how did the tour end?

Gary: We had a farewell dinner back in Christchurch with all our fellow guests, who by this point really did feel like friends, along with Nathan our Tour Director and Mark our driver, both of whom were quite simply outstanding throughout. Over 2,200 kilometres together. Nathan was warm, professional, and genuinely brilliant with the group from start to finish. Mark drove every inch of those roads with complete confidence and good humour. As someone assessing the product professionally, I couldn’t have asked for a better crew.

Southern Spectacular: The Undercover Verdict

Richard: So, Gary what is the mystery shopper’s verdict? Would you recommend the AAT Kings Southern Spectacular?

Gary: Unreservedly, and I want to be clear that I say that not just as the UK Sales Manager whose job it is to say that, but as someone who experienced every single day of it exactly as our customers do. What AAT Kings delivers on this tour is the complete package. The logistics, the hotels, the timing, the included experiences, the optional extras, the contingency planning when weather intervenes, are all taken completely off your plate. And what’s more, you don’t need to worry about doing any of the driving, you can simply be present, relax and enjoy the experience stress-free.

Richard: And for anyone who might be hesitant about escorted touring in New Zealand, perhaps thinking it’s not for them?

Gary: I’d say this: the Southern Spectacular gave me access to experiences I genuinely could not have organised independently. The ‘Be My Guest’ afternoon tea with Ange and Stan at Lake Tekapo, the Monarch Wildlife Cruise to see the albatross colony, the TSS Earnslaw to Walter Peak. These aren’t just tour itinerary entries, they are memories that will last a lifetime. And you’re sharing them with a group of people who become, very quickly, genuine companions.

Richard: And New Zealand versus Scotland. Your final verdict?

Gary: (Laughing) Scotland is my home and I love her fiercely. But New Zealand’s South Island is… something else. The scale, the variety, the sheer drama of it. I came back absolutely in love with the place, and I’m already trying to find an excuse to return. Although I’ll say this, New Zealand, if you’re listening: the whisky still needs some work. We’ll keep that title.

Richard: (Laughing) On that diplomatic note, Gary, thank you so much. That was genuinely brilliant, and I suspect more than a few of our listeners will be on the phone to us before this podcast is even finished.

Gary: I hope so! Any questions, you know where to find me.

Richard: We certainly do. Thank you all for listening, and if a holiday to New Zealand’s South Island is calling, do get in touch with Freedom Destinations’ expert Travel Consultants and they will help you find the perfect way to experience it all, including tours in Australia and New Zealand with AAT Kings.

And we will be back next month talking to another destination expert, so make sure you join us then. Safe travels everyone.
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This podcast transcript was written by Richard Webb, in association with Freedom Destinations and AAT Kings.