I have always been a fan of Clint Eastwood. I can’t remember the first movie I saw, as I was pretty young at the time, but I know it was a western. It’s not to say I don’t love his portrayal of a hardened American soldier or a gritty police detective, but he’s still best with a poncho over his shoulder, pistol on his hip, and hat pulled low over his eyes. Clint Eastwood makes the perfect lonesome cowboy.
Growing up I wanted to be a cowboy too. There were just two problems. The first was that I was a child growing up in the suburbs of London. The second, that I didn’t really like horses – or to be more accurate, they didn’t seem to like me, eying me with suspicion, perhaps sensing my nervousness…
Anyway, why am I telling you all this? Well, I’m off to Arizona to face my fears! To Tucson, for my first ever USA ranch holiday. As the great man said, “Sometimes, if you want to see a change for the better, you have to take things into your own hands…”
Packing for a ranch holiday is bit different than packing for other types of holidays. Generally, ranches have a casual and comfortable dress code, and with a lot of outdoor activities, you need to pack accordingly. You can certainly leave the formal wear behind.
Jeans are the nearest thing to a uniform around a ranch, so I packed a couple of pairs. My theory was to pack at least one pair of jeans for the activities during the day, and then have another pair for dining and the evening. I also packed a pair of shorts, knowing that the weather in Tucson, Arizona is generally hot and dry.
I decided on packing a few T-shirts but mixed them up with a more casual long-sleeved shirts. My thinking here was mostly about sun protection rather than warmth. Tucson is one of the sunniest cities in America, with nearly 300 days of sunshine every year. The sun can be very strong, especially in the summer months, so I was thinking about covering up, rather than relying solely on sunscreen.
You will have already noted that I am not a horse-rider, so I don’t have riding boots. I was advised that walking boots/shoes and a decent pair of trainers would suffice for most of the activities that I would be participating in.
Finally, I packed a light jacket for the early mornings and evenings around a campfire, and a pair of swimming shorts, as I hoped that it would be possible to cool off in the pool at some point.
Hindsight tells me I was mostly right with my selections. A hat is a must whenever you are outside in Arizona, and if you have a pair of gloves, then I thoroughly recommend them for horse riding. The reigns can be harsh on the hands if you are not used to riding.
Getting to Tucson couldn’t be much easier. I was travelling from the UK, so took advantage of British Airways’ direct flight to Phoenix from London Heathrow. In just over 10 hours I was walking out of Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport into the sunshine to collect my rental car. It is then more or less one straight road south all the way to Tucson, and the drive took me just 90 minutes.
Tucson does have its own airport, although currently there are no direct flights from the UK. However, if you are travelling from elsewhere in America, or just transiting via another airport, then flying into Tucson is a good option. Many of the ranches also arrange transfers from Tucson airport, so you may not even require a car.
My destination was White Stallion Ranch, which is just outside Tucson, easily accessible from Interstate 10.
After a full day of travel, I turned off the Interstate and followed a dusty road towards White Stallion Ranch. The sun was low in the sky by this time, and it cast a welcome glow over the landscape. In the distance, I could see the silhouettes of the iconic saguaro cacti standing tall in the desert, making me feel that I had arrived in a western movie.
As I pulled up to the ranch, I was met with a warm welcome from the staff, who instantly made me feel at ease. There was something incredibly peaceful about the place. Perhaps it was the wide-open spaces, the gentle whinnying of horses in their corrals, or the sheer sense of being somewhere completely different from home. I could even imagine my friend Clint riding into view over the hill.
I was shown to my room, a cosy and rustic space that blended comfort with an authentic Western feel. Ranch holidays aren’t really about the rooms that you stay in, and I wasn’t expecting 5-star luxury, but it was exactly what I had hoped for. A place to relax, unwind, and fully embrace the cowboy experience.
After a quick freshen-up, I wandered over to the main lodge where a hearty dinner was being served. I chose sizzling steak and warm cornbread, and I was soon tucking into this satisfying meal and chatting with some of the other guests, many of whom were returning visitors. They spoke with such enthusiasm about the ranch and the horses that my nerves about riding started to creep back in. Was I really about to face my equine fears in the morning?
The morning arrived crisp and cool and the sky a brilliant shade of blue. Barely a cloud dotted the sky. After a hot breakfast and coffee, I made my way to the stables, where the wranglers were matching new guests with their horses. I could feel my heart pounding as I waited, my nerves threatening to get the better of me. Surely Clint never had this problem? Then, I was introduced to my horse for the next couple of days. A beautiful chestnut gelding named Amarillo. He was calm, his deep brown eyes watching me more with curiosity than suspicion, which I think was a good start.
One of the wranglers, sensing my hesitation, gave me a reassuring smile. “You’ll be fine. Just take a deep breath and trust him.” Easier said than done, but I mounted up and tried to relax as we set off on a slow and steady ride around the ranch.
This was a new experience for me, but it wasn’t for Amarillo. He put up with me as I learnt the ropes. At first, I was tense, gripping the reins too tightly and second-guessing every movement Amarillo made. But as we walked through the desert trails, something changed. The rhythmic sway of the saddle, the warmth of the sun on my back, and the sheer beauty of the landscape started to work their magic. I wasn’t just sitting on a horse; I was starting to enjoy it. By the time we returned to the ranch, I felt a flicker of something quite unexpected: confidence. Maybe I had found my inner Clint Eastwood.
I celebrated surviving the day with a late afternoon dip in the outdoor pool and changed from my dusty jeans in readiness for a well-earned drink and seat around the campfire. I can promise you that there is nothing quite like a evening BBQ, under the stars, in the Arizona desert.
The following morning, I woke up with a sense of excitement rather than apprehension. Today, I had signed up for a longer morning ride, and this time, I was genuinely looking forward to it. Amarillo seemed to recognise me as I approached, giving a little snort as if to say, “Alright, let’s do this.”
We set off on a trail that took us deeper into the surrounding Sonoran Desert, weaving between towering cacti and rocky outcrops. Amarillo knew the way, so I found myself settling into the rhythm much more easily, even daring to loosen my grip on the reins. The wranglers led us to a scenic overlook where we paused to take in the breathtaking views. The vast desert stretched endlessly before us. I can definitely understand why people fall in love with Tucson and the cowboy way of life.
In the afternoon, I swapped horseback riding for something a little different, a lesson in roping. Spoiler alert: I was absolutely terrible at it. My attempts to lasso a stationary target resulted in more tangled rope than success, but it was fun nonetheless. I also tried my hand at some archery, discovering that while I might not be a natural cowboy, I can at least hit a target with a bow and arrow. I wonder if Clint can do that?
That evening, as I sat by the campfire under a sky ablaze with stars, I realised how much I had enjoyed the last two days. I had come here nervous about the horses, unsure about what to expect, but now I was completely immersed in the experience, and already planning on when I can return.
The final morning at White Stallion Ranch arrived far too soon. I made my way to the stables for one last ride with Amarillo, feeling a pang of sadness that our short-lived partnership was coming to an end. I gave him a gentle pat on the neck and whispered a quiet thank you. He had been very patient with me.
After saying my goodbyes to the wonderful staff and fellow guests at White Stallion Ranch, I still had 24 hours until my flight home, so I had a little time to explore more of what Tucson has to offer.
One of the highlights was a drive out to Saguaro National Park, where I hiked the Valley View Overlook Trail, among the towering cacti and soaked up the incredible desert views. I definitely recommend going early to avoid the heat of the day, whatever time of year you are visiting, and be sure to take some water with you!
I also stopped by the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum; an open-air museum, zoo and botanical garden all in one. It is a good way to learn more about the unique geography and wildlife of the region.
I could have gone to the Pima Air & Space Museum, but chose to stop by the historic Mission San Xavier del Bac instead. This preserved 18th Century Spanish mission, has an intricately painted ceiling, as well as ornate carvings amongst its baroque-style architecture. I can imagine that my friend Clint will have filmed something in this beautiful building.
Perhaps my most memorable Tucson experience came that night, when I ventured out onto Tucson’s Astro Trail. Tucson is one of the best places in the world for stargazing, thanks to its clear skies and low light pollution. I had seen some of the stars from my evenings at the ranch, but this time I joined a guided tour at Kitt Peak National Observatory, where I was able to peer through powerful telescopes and marvelled at the brilliance of the Milky Way stretching across the heavens. The night sky is so beautiful.
My short visit to Tucson was rewarding. Whilst a ranch holiday isn’t going to be at the top of everyone’s to-do list, and not everyone has idolised Clint Eastwood in the way that I have, but there is definitely something to be said for challenging your fears, discovering the Arizona scenery and night-time skies. You can even make friends with horses. I hope Clint is proud, and Tucson, I shall return.
Holidays to Arizona by Freedom Destinations.
Richard has more than 25 years of experience working within the travel industry. He has travelled widely in the USA, Australia and Africa and enjoys exploring National Parks and other wilderness areas.
