I don’t like to brag, but I have just returned from an amazing holiday in the Seychelles. Now don’t worry, I am not going to bore with you my holiday photos or tell tales of what I got up to every day. This is not that type of travel guide. However, as I first visited the Seychelles about 15 years ago, I am in the privileged position to share some travel tips and personal insights that may help you plan your own fantastic holiday to the Seychelles.
For such a well-known holiday destination, it is remarkable to me, that when I informed friends and family, and even a few of my well-informed travel industry colleagues, that I was holidaying in the Seychelles this year, there was some confusion as to exactly where the islands of the Seychelles are located. “The Caribbean?” “The Mediterranean?” “Near Sri Lanka” were just some of the wrong guesses that I heard. Others confused the Seychelles with the Maldives, but I will get to that later. For now, let’s start with the facts…
The Seychelles are actually an archipelago of 115 islands and atolls that are scattered across the Indian Ocean, approximately 1000 miles off the eastern coast of Africa. This island nation lies just 7 degrees south of the equator, which gives it a warm and tropical climate all year round. The Seychelles is northeast of Madagascar and in between the other Indian Ocean island nations of Mauritius and the Maldives, although each has its own distinct geography and culture.
The Seychelles archipelago consists of two main types of islands: the granite rock based ‘Inner Islands’, where most of the population lives, and the ‘Outer Islands’, which are primarily coral atolls and sand cays. These remote outer islands are mostly uninhabited and remain relatively untouched, offering pristine natural landscapes and abundant marine life. Something rare in today’s world.
It is the diverse geography of the Seychelles, from its lush mountainous interiors to its idyllic white-sand beaches and coral reefs, that make it an island paradise and perfect destination for all types of holidays.
Unless you happen to be arriving in the Seychelles on an international cruise, most people will be arriving at Seychelles International Airport, on the largest of the Seychelles islands, Mahé. Although, there are currently no direct flights from the UK to the Seychelles there are still a number of carriers to choose from. Flying from many regional and London airports, the big Middle-Eastern airlines offer good connections for those visiting the Seychelles. Emirates, Etihad Airways and Qatar Airways all offer a good quality service with modern terminals and lounges when you are transiting. I chose to fly with Emirates from my local airport and only had two hours transit in Dubai on my outward journey and even less on the return. Both connections were swift and made for a pleasant journey.
People also choose the Seychelles as a relaxing beach stay following an African safari holiday. This combination of safari and beach works really well and there are direct flights to the Seychelles from Nairobi and Johannesburg. Both of these cities also have good connections from Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana and Zimbabwe, making the Seychelles a short hop from most of Eastern Africa.
As well as an international service to many countries, Air Seychelles are also the domestic airline for all the Seychelles Islands. There are regular flights throughout the day between Mahé and Praslin, as well as daily flights to the outer islands, such as Denis Island. As well as being a functional service, flying between the islands also provides spectacular views of the lush green forests and shallow azure seas.
Being so close to the equator, the Seychelles benefits from a warm tropical climate all year round, and it doesn’t have dramatically different seasons. It is also outside the cyclone belt, meaning it avoids the storms, hurricanes and cyclones that occasionally affect other tropical island destinations. Temperatures rarely dip below 24°C, and the annual average is a balmy 28°C.
The best time to visit the Seychelles largely depends on what you want to do while you’re there. The direction of the prevailing winds can make certain months better suited for different activities. For example, if you’re looking for the best conditions for swimming, snorkelling, and diving, the months of April and May, as well as October and November, are ideal. During these months, the winds are changing direction, so they are calmer, the sea is at its clearest, and water temperatures remain warm, making for excellent underwater visibility.
For those interested in sailing or windsurfing, the stronger south-easterly trade winds from May to September create perfect conditions with wind speeds reaching up to 20 knots. This period also brings drier weather with plenty of sunshine, although occasional brief showers can occur.
The wettest months in the Seychelles are usually from December through to February, with the increased humidity setting off rainfall, particularly later in the afternoons. However, heavy showers can happen throughout the year, but they are usually short-lived.
Although there are some differences between the outer and inner islands, all of the Seychelles islands benefit from their equatorial geography and are truly a year-round holiday destination.
Seychelles Holidays by Freedom Destinations
Although there are a total of 115 island and atolls that make up the Seychelles, you don’t have to visit them all. Indeed, 72 of the islands are classed as the outer islands, which are largely uninhabited and rarely visited by anyone. Of the remaining inner islands, only 20 islands have a permanent population and others are either private, protected nature reserves or National Parks. Some islands, such as Denis Island are home to just one luxury resort, leaving the rest of the island to nature. Only three islands are home to multiple towns, hotels and resorts, Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, so it is these three that you are most likely to visit when you holiday in the Seychelles.
As the largest island in the Seychelles, Mahé is the arrival point for travellers, and you should consider exploring before you head to the smaller islands. I spent most of my time on Mahé, and I can say that it has so much to offer. With towering granite peaks, lush jungle foliage, and some of the most stunning beaches I have ever seen, Mahé offers a perfect mix of adventure, relaxation, and tropical island charm.
One of the first things I noticed was just how diverse the island is. On arrival at the airport, I was whisked away in a taxi to my resort. We began our journey on the outskirts of the capital, Victoria, but then the road climbed dramatically into the mountains, winding its way through thick green rainforest. Once beyond the peak of the mountains we dropped back down to the west coast of the island, lined by gorgeous sandy beaches and rocky inlets. The island may host 90% of the country’s population, but I would never describe it as urban.
One moment you’re in the small but lively capital, Victoria, wandering through the colourful Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market, and the next, you’re driving along winding coastal roads, discovering hidden coves and quiet beaches. Beau Vallon Beach is a personal favourite – it has a great mix of laid-back vibes and beachside restaurants, plus some of the best sunsets I’ve ever seen. For something quieter, Anse Intendance felt like a secret slice of paradise, with powdery white sand and turquoise waters stretching as far as the eye can see.
If you love hiking, Morne Seychellois National Park is a must. Despite the 30°C heat and tropical humidity, I tackled one of the trails up into the mountains, and the views were absolutely worth the sweat. And for anyone who enjoys snorkelling or diving, the reefs around Mahé are full of marine life, especially around Ste Anne Marine Park. Whether you want adventure or just to unwind with a coconut in hand, Mahé has something for everyone.
You are spoilt for choice when looking for luxury beach resorts on the island of Mahé. I chose to base myself at the Constance Ephelia on the western side of the island. Although a large resort, the Constance Ephelia is spaciously spread between two gorgeous sandy beaches, so it never really feels busy. With a mixture of rooms suites and villas, the hotel can accommodate couples and families alike, without ever intruding on privacy or space. The hotel has multiple swimming pools, five restaurants and associated bars that cover Seychellois and international cuisines. With the beaches and more than 300 acres of forests and mangroves all within the resort, you could be forgiven for not wanting to leave.
Alternative recommended hotels include the Story Seychelles, on the beautiful Beau Vallon Beach, and the boutique Carana Beach Resort, if you prefer something a little more intimate.
Praslin is an island that exudes relaxation. It is smaller and quieter than Mahé, but in many ways, that’s what makes it so special. Everything here feels untouched, from the powdery white beaches to the thick jungle that covers much of the island. It may only be a 15-minute flight or an hour’s ferry ride from Mahé, but the pace of life is noticeably slower, making it the perfect place to unwind.
One of the highlights of my time on Praslin was exploring Vallée de Mai, a UNESCO-listed nature reserve that resembles a prehistoric forest. Walking through the towering Coco de Mer palms, with nothing to hear apart from birdsong and the rustling of leaves around me, was a special experience. This is the only place in the world (along with neighbouring Curieuse Island) where the Coco de Mer, the world’s largest nut, grows naturally, so you have to stop for the obligatory photo holding this heavy odd-shaped coconut.
Of course, the beaches here are just as spectacular as you’d expect. Anse Lazio is regularly named one of the world’s best, and when I arrived, it was easy to see why; soft white sand, crystal-clear water, and huge granite boulders framing the scene. Anse Georgette was another hidden gem, a little harder to reach but well worth the effort. Snorkelling off these beaches was incredible, with vibrant coral reefs and colourful fish everywhere. Even Anse d’Or, fringed by colourful local shops and cafés with coloured plastic chairs out the front, is a world class beach and a great place to relax, swim and join a boat trip around the island. Praslin has just enough restaurants, beach bars, and small resorts to be convenient, but it never feels crowded or overdeveloped. It’s the perfect mix of luxury and seclusion, making it an ideal escape for anyone looking to experience the true beauty of the Seychelles.
Being a smaller island, there are fewer resorts then on Mahé, but there is no skimping on quality. Nowhere is this more evident than at the Constance Lemuria, the sister property to the Constance Ephelia on Mahé. From the moment I arrived, I was struck by how seamlessly the resort blends into its natural surroundings. lush greenery, rolling hills, and three of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen, including the stunning Anse Georgette. The whole place has a laid-back luxury feel, with spacious suites and villas tucked away in the landscape, offering total privacy and breathtaking views. The service was exceptional, warm, attentive, but never intrusive. Mornings started with an incredible breakfast overlooking the ocean, and days were spent snorkelling, paddleboarding, or simply reading by the infinity pool. What really made Lémuria special was the atmosphere; luxurious yet unpretentious, with a real sense of space and tranquillity.
A recommended alternative hotel is the Coco De Mer, not only is the hotel situated in 200 acres of tropical gardens, but the hotel offers a free shuttle bus to Anse Lazio beach for all guests.
La Digue is the kind of place that stays with you long after you’ve left. As soon as I stepped off the catamaran ferry, I knew this island was something special. With no airport and very few cars, everything moves at a wonderfully slow pace, and most people get around by bicycle, which only adds to the charm. The island is small. You can cycle from one end to the other in under an hour, but it’s packed with breathtaking scenery, lush jungle, and some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. If you thought the beaches on Mahé and Praslin were stunning, then La Digue somehow outshines them.
The highlight on La Digue is Anse Source d’Argent. This beach is famous for a reason, huge granite boulders frame shallow, crystal-clear water, and soft white sand that feels almost unreal. If AI created beaches it would probably produce Anse Source d’Argent. I spent hours here, wading through the warm water, snorkelling, and just soaking in the view. If you have time, I recommend renting a kayak because the views back from the water are almost better than actually standing on the beach.
Grand Anse and Petite Anse on the other side of the island are wilder beaches, with powerful waves and hardly a soul around. With a backdrop of untouched rainforest these are worth the cycle ride. Away from the beaches, I also enjoyed exploring L’Union Estate, where you can visit coconut and vanilla plantations, and get to meet the resident giant tortoises.
The whole island has a laid-back, authentic feel, with small guesthouses, Creole restaurants, and friendly locals who make you feel at home. Life on La Digue is simple, beautiful, and completely unforgettable. It’s the kind of place you dream about returning to, the moment that you have stepped back on the ferry.
Along with everything else the choice is much simpler on La Digue Island. I stopped at the Domaine de l’Orangeraie, just a short distance from the ferry jetty. The stunning views of the Indian Ocean from the wooden deck around the infinity pool are amazing and the oceanfront restaurants serve locally sourced Seychellois cuisine. Service is prompt but understated, making you feel very welcome as soon as you cross the stepping stones to reception.
My recommended alternative hotel is the Le Repaire. A charming boutique hotel within walking distance of the jetty. Only a three-star property, but you will be welcomed like long lost family on your first visit.
Some of the islands surrounding the main three are private islands. Usually occupied by one resort they are designed for those that want to truly escape from the rest of the world. Perhaps the best example of this is Denis Private Island. The definition of a paradise retreat, Denis Island is a 30-minute light aircraft flight from Mahé. The views from the plane are spectacular before you have even landed on the private airstrip that runs from one side of the island to the other. There are no cars, no roads, and no distractions, just pristine white beaches, swaying coconut palms, and the endless turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. The island is incredibly private, with just a handful of beautifully designed beachfront cottages, each offering direct access to the sand and total peace and quiet. There is no phone signal and no internet, so this will not appeal to young families and Instagrammers, but if you are looking for barefoot luxury, then Denis Island is the destination for you.
Alternative private islands include the ultra-luxurious North Island and Fregate Island which is mostly a wildlife sanctuary.
I have already mentioned that Air Seychelles is the domestic airline that flies between the islands that have an airstrip, but I chose an alternative method. The Cat Cocos catamaran ferry is a quick and relaxing way to travel between the islands. It is just over an hour to get from Mahé to Praslin, and just a further 15 minutes from Praslin to La Digue. The cheapest seats are fine, enclosed in an air-conditioned cabin, although you can upgrade to the top deck if you want to sit outside. And why wouldn’t you? I believe you get the best views as you arrive and leave an island by boat. Tickets are best reserved in advance of your journey and my top tip is to not miss the last ferry! Although there are worse places to be stranded.
I mentioned earlier that before I left some people confused the Seychelles with the Maldives, and the same thing has happened since my return. When I explain that they are two different places, I have often been asked, “which is best?”. My answer is simple. Both the Seychelles and the Maldives are lovely. The Maldives are mostly sand and coral islands at around sea-level, with luxury resorts usually perched on a single island. With overwater rooms and water activities, you are unlikely to hop between islands. The Seychelles is different. These granite islands have mountains, rainforests and glorious beaches to explore. Whilst you can stay in your resort, or enjoy the luxury of a private island, I would highly recommend a Seychelles Island Hopping Holiday so that you can see all that the Seychelles has to offer.
So which island will you choose for your Seychelles holiday? Mahé is the big island, full of character and rainforest clad hills. Praslin is the laid-back neighbour with beautiful beaches and very rare nuts. La Digue is home to probably the most photographed beach in the world and Denis Island is a quiet retreat where you can immerse yourself in a natural paradise. The choice is yours…
… so, would you like to see my holiday photos now?
Richard has more than 25 years of experience working within the travel industry. He has travelled widely in the USA, Australia and Africa and enjoys exploring National Parks and other wilderness areas.
