Queensland: Beyond the Reef • Mountains, Rainforest & Outback
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Queensland: Beyond the Reef

Queensland: Beyond The Reef

Queensland has a secret that it would like to share…

We all think we know it. Queensland, Australia; home to the Great Barrier Reef. The world’s largest coral reef that stretches for almost 1,500 miles along Australia’s East Coast, and is visible from space. If you love picture perfect islands and beautiful azure seas, a Queensland holiday is certainly for you.

So, what’s Queensland’s secret? Well, there is so much more to explore… beyond the reef.

Queensland is Australia’s second largest state, with a land area seven times the size of the UK. Long before Captain Cook arrived on its shores, people have been enthralled by the natural beauty of the region. Ancient Aboriginal art found throughout Queensland’s hinterland depicts lush rainforests, beautiful coasts and unique wildlife, that can all still be enjoyed today.

From Australia’s northernmost tip to the New South Wales border, we take a look at just some of the many places to visit in Queensland, beyond the reef.

Queensland’s Tropical North

We start at Cape York, a beautiful but remote peninsular that is the most northerly point in Australia, just 150km from Papua New Guinea. Fording across seasonal rivers and following the dusty route of the Old Telegraph Track, Cape York tends only to be visited by the most adventurous of tourists, with well-equipped 4×4 vehicles and a love for a challenge. The rest of us don’t have to miss out however, there are plenty more spectacular landscapes across the state…

Daintree, “The Most Extraordinary Place on Earth”

Daintree Rainforest is the oldest rainforest in the world with plant species dating back millions of years. It is a diverse ecosystem of unique flora and fauna, with free-flowing waterways, once described by Sir David Attenborough as “the most extraordinary place on earth”.

Just over an hour’s drive north of Port Douglas, Daintree is the remarkable World Heritage Site that crept up behind you while you were busy looking at the Great Barrier Reef. Also easily accessible from Cairns, the route through the Daintree Rainforest to Cape Tribulation takes you through a lush, tropical wonderland.

Daintree Rainforest, North Queensland
Daintree Rainforest

Nestled in the heart of the rainforest is the Daintree Discovery Centre, where you can immerse yourself in the full rainforest experience, from the dry forest floor to the towering, green canopy above. Be sure to take a cruise along the Daintree River to glimpse crocodiles basking on the bank amongst the king ferns. Seek out a secret swimming hole and stop by the elevated boardwalk at Mossman Gorge to view the cool waters cascading over the granite boulders of the Mossman River.

Where to Stay in the Daintree Rainforest:

To experience the best of Queensland’s Tropical North it is necessary to leave the resort-style hotels of Cairns and Port Douglas behind and embrace nature. However, this doesn’t mean turning your back on luxury. Silky Oaks Lodge offers stylish treehouse accommodation overlooking the Mossman River, whilst Daintree Ecolodge offers a secluded stay in the heart of the rainforest.

The Atherton Tablelands

Running parallel to the Great Barrier Reef are the mountains of the Great Dividing Range, stretching for more than 2,000 miles and separating coastal Queensland from the rest of Australia. Volcanically formed, to the north of the range, extensive lava flow filled the valleys to create a plateau, known as the Atherton Tablelands.

Atherton Tablelands, Queensland
Atherton Tablelands

As well as being a gateway to the reef, Cairns is also the best entry point for exploring the Atherton Tablelands. The area’s rich and fertile soils have long been cultivated by farmers, but there remain vast swathes of untouched rainforest, freshwater creeks and calm lakes to discover. The Atherton Tablelands are a great place to cool off when temperatures by the coast get a little too warm.

Kuranda, the Village in a Rainforest

Just 15 miles outside of Cairns is Kuranda, nicknamed the “village in a rainforest”. Home to several wildlife and nature attractions, such as the Koala Gardens, Butterfly Sanctuary and Rainforestation, this picturesque mountain town also has local markets, artisan cafés and boutique shops to peruse. Part of the fun is getting there however, aboard the historic Kuranda scenic railway or on the Skyrail cablecar, that passes over Barron Falls.

The natural geology of the Atherton Tablelands has created an abundance of freshwater creeks and some of the most impressive waterfalls and cascades in Queensland. Lakes such as Barrine, Eacham and Tinnaroo are perfect places to swim and the spectacular waterfalls of Millaa Millaa, Zillie and Elinjaa provide beautiful locations to enjoy a natural spa.

Millaa Millaa Falls, Atherton Tablelands
Millaa Millaa Falls

Further west lies the town of Mareeba which has a history dating back to the gold rush. Today it is a food lovers paradise with local tropical fruit farms, vineyards and coffee plantations providing produce for the town’s restaurants and markets. Mareeba has become famous for hosting an annual rodeo each July and a multi-cultural arts festival every August.

Where to Stay in the Atherton Tablelands:

Overlooking the pristine rainforest of Wooroonooran National Park, Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat offers a mountain escape amongst the lush green canopy. The luxurious rooms are perfect for a couple’s getaway or a family wanting to immerse themselves amongst the beautiful scenery of the Atherton Tablelands.

Outback Queensland

Visitors familiar with Queensland may still be surprised to learn that 65% of the state is the arid bushland of the Australian Outback. Very different from the green coastal scenery, in the Outback you can experience ancient landscapes shaped over time and panoramic night skies untouched by urban lights.

Mount Isa & Lake Moondarra

Surrounded by the rugged landscape of Queensland’s northwest, best explored with a 4×4 vehicle, the modern town of Mount Isa grew around the copper, zinc, lead and silver mines in the area. A short drive from the town’s outskirts is Lake Moondarra, which was created by damming the Leichardt River in the 1950s, and popular with anglers, birdwatchers and sailors.

Further afield the colours change to the rusty reds synonymous with Australia. It is out here that you will find the Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park. Although way off the beaten track, this is the land that the Crocodile Dundee made famous in a Tourism Australia Superbowl advert, and years later it still attracts tens of thousands of visitors following in Paul Hogan’s footsteps. The journey is definitely worth it, with striking red sandstone cliff walls dropping into (ironically!) crocodile-free waters, that are bordered by hardy gum trees. This is the Australia of glossy brochures made real.

Riversleigh & the First Crocs

Further into the same National Park you will find the Riversleigh World Heritage Site, home to fossils dating back 25 million years. It is here that archaeologists have identified large flightless birds alongside the earliest ancestors of the freshwater crocodile and have unravelled the story of the evolution of current Australian mammals. There are various walking trails that take you through the Riversleigh area, but for something longer and more challenging, try hiking along the Lawn Hill Gorge, where cliffside trails provide spectacular views through to the Middle and Upper Gorges.

Lawn Hill Gorge, Boodjamulla National Park
Lawn Hill Gorge

80 miles east of Townsville, the town of Ravenswood provides an insight into the life that prospectors and miners found in Queensland in the days of pioneering exploration. Tall chimneys, mine machinery and pit heads dot the surrounding area, whilst beautifully restored hotels and public buildings recreate the town’s century old glory. This living museum gives a glimpse of what the town was once like, and locals are always happy to share their own stories over a drink in the saloon.

Charleville, Stargazing Central

Further south, and around 750 km west of Brisbane, the town of Charleville offers a gateway to the cosmos. Each night, Charleville’s observatory rolls open its roof and invites guests to explore the dark skies above the Australian Outback; to spot binary stars, the Milky Way and various planets through powerful telescopes. Scientists operate the stargazing equipment and guide guests through the unique story of the solar system and beyond.    

Night sky over Charleville, Queensland
Night sky above Charleville

Further south still, where Queensland meets New South Wales, is Currawinya National Park, an oasis in the Outback. Here, migratory shoebill birds are drawn in their thousands to a series of interconnecting lakes, rivers and wetlands, in otherwise dry and dusty bushland. The shoebills are joined by more than 200 other bird species, plus resident kangaroos and wallabies.

Where to stay in Queensland’s Outback:

A working cattle ranch since 1912, at Wambiana Station you can experience the outback way of life. With hands on activities, you’ll learn about the inner workings and challenges of operating an outback cattle station.

Bundaberg to the Sunshine Coast

Back on the eastern side of the Great Dividing Range, the town of Bundaberg marks the southerly extent of the Great Barrier Reef. Sitting on the Burnett River just inland from the coast, Bundaberg is a quintessential Australian country town, made famous by its award-winning rum distillery, fed by the sugar cane farms in the surrounding area. A tour and tasting session is a must, after which there is a vibrant local food scene to discover.

Hervey Bay, Australia’s Whale Watching Capital

To the south of Bundaberg, along the Fraser Coast, lies Hervey Bay, Australia’s whale watching capital. From July to October migratory humpback whales nurture their young calves in the calm and protected waters. In this relaxed environment it is possible to get close-up experiences with these gentle giants, either on a whale watching cruise or onland, from platforms and dunes around Hervey Bay.

Whale watching, Hervey Bay
Whale watching in Hervey Bay

At the far end of Hervey Bay is K’gari (Fraser Island), where eco-adventures are to the fore on the world’s largest sand island. Although it’s possible to explore independently, a guided 4×4 tour of Fraser Island can be the most rewarding way to experience its towering forests, sand dunes and freshwater lakes, and the iconic 75 Mile beach, complete with shipwrecks and resident dingoes. A top spot for a refreshing dip is Boorangoora (Lake McKenzie) where soft white sands mix with the deep blues and greens of the fresh water.

Noosa’s Beaches & Breweries

Fraser Island is part of the Great Sandy National Park that continues down the coast on the mainland as far as the relaxed holiday town of Noosa. Here you’ll find balmy beaches and coastal trails to follow through Noosa National Park, as well as a growing food and drink industry, with breweries and bistros featuring local produce from farms inland. Once you have finished surfing or paddle-boarding in the morning head to Eumundi to visit the markets, for fruit, nuts and other crops, as fresh as can be.

Noosa Beach, Queensland
Noosa Beach

Make sure to also visit the Noosa Everglades, one of only two everglades in the world and best explored by kayak or a guided cruise. Keep an eye out for a variety of birdlife, from pelicans to the rare jabiru, and native Australian plants, such as banksias and tea trees.

The Glass House Mountains

Along the Sunshine Coast, just north of Brisbane, rock formations rise from the ground like a scene from Jurassic Park. These are the Glass House Mountains; magnificent, rugged remnants of volcanic eruptions 25 million years ago. An outdoor adventure playground, hiking and biking trails wind between waterholes to spectacular lookouts, with gullies lined by lush undergrowth and woodlands that are home to koalas, echidnas and kangaroos.

Visitors are often drawn to Mount Tibrogargan, where a trail leads through eucalyptus forests around the mountain’s base. A more challenging route is the climb to the top of Mount Beerwah, where the panoramic views across to the Sunshine Coast are worth the effort. Impress your friends with the best photos at sunrise or sunset.

Glasshouse Mountains, Queensland
Glass House Mountains

Where to Stay on K’gari (Fraser Island) & the Sunshine Coast:

On K’gari (Fraser Island), the eco-friendly Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a variety of nature tours and 4×4 island safaris. In the Noosa hinterlands, there are several unique properties, including Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat, a collection of just six cottages, each with its own hammock to lie back and listen to the sounds of the jungle, and Glass House Mountains Ecolodge, where you can stay in a restored Victorian railway carriage!

Gold Coast & Southern Queensland

Around an hour south of Brisbane, you reach the increasingly tall beachside buildings of the Gold Coast, an Aussie holiday hotspot. Most famous for the golden sands of Surfers Paradise and its non-stop theme parks, including Sea World and Movie World, the Gold Coast has a growing arts and cultural scene, plus a diverse choice of cafés, bars and restaurants, with plenty of options for going ‘out out’.

Those wanting to catch a wave alongside the professionals, should head to the beaches at Currumbin and Burleigh Heads, where as those just wishing to relax and enjoy the sunshine should try Broadbeach or Nobby Beach, where there are also some local-favourite eateries.

Gold Coast
Gold Coast

The Gold Coast Hinterland is the green behind the shiny gold of the seaside. The landscape quickly changes from sandy beaches to green rolling hills and forests, that feel a world away from Surfers Paradise. Historic volcanoes created this World Heritage Area known as the Scenic Rim, where a series of mountain ranges and National Parks form a natural wonderland.

Adventures in the Scenic Rim

From Brisbane and the Gold Coast, Lamington National Park is the most accessible of the parks, with an abundance of walking trails and scenic roads that wind their way through forest habitats. Tamborine National Park, Mount Chinghoe, Mount Barney, the Moogerah Peaks and Main Range National Park all provide stunning scenery and are worth exploring by foot as well as car, whilst at Lake Moogerah you can go kayaking, fishing or waterskiing on its cool waters.

Lamington National Park, Queensland
Lamington National Park

Across the other side of the Scenic Rim is the Granite Belt. It is this area of Queensland where the traditional seasons of spring, summer, autumn and winter are most noticeable (unlike in the Tropical North), with frosts and even snow possible in winter and wildflowers blanketing the hillsides in spring.

With its more temperate climate it is no surprise to learn that this part of Queensland is the epicentre of the state’s burgeoning wine scene, and it is possible to visit various wineries, take a tour and enjoy a tasting while you are here.  

Where to Stay in South Queensland:

Surrounded by the subtropical rainforest of Lamington National Park, O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat provides the perfect location to explore the mountains and lakes of the Scenic Rim and Gold Coast Hinterlands. Enjoy elevated walkways through the treetops and various trails that disappear into the park, directly from your room. In the Gold Coast, the apartment style suites of Mantra Sierra Grand on Broadbeach offer scenic views of the Hinterlands or along the Pacific Coast.

Take Me to Queensland!

If you would like to explore Queensland for yourself, get in touch with Freedom Destinations’ Australia Experts who can help you plan your adventure.

WRITTEN BY
Richard

Richard has more than 25 years of experience working within the travel industry. He has travelled widely in the USA, Australia and Africa and enjoys exploring National Parks and other wilderness areas.