Orangutans… That’s probably what first comes to mind when you think about Borneo. The opportunity to encounter these incredible but endangered primates was what initially enticed me to visit Sabah, but there is so much more to discover, and a Malaysian Borneo holiday definitely deserves a spot on your bucket list…
Sabah is a Malaysian state in Northern Borneo, and it is a nature lover’s dream. When it comes to natural wonders, Sabah is in a league of its own, with an incredible opportunity for wildlife spotting, a rainforest twice as old as the Amazon and Borneo’s highest peak, majestic Mount Kinabalu.
So here’s an insight into my experience of Malaysian Borneo, and a pitch for why Sabah should be your next holiday destination…
As you can’t fly directly from the UK to Sabah, with routes taking you via Kuala Lumpur, I took this as the perfect excuse to spend a couple of days exploring the hustle and bustle of Malaysia’s capital, before I would experience Borneo’s unspoilt landscapes and incredible wildlife. The flight from Kuala Lumpur to Sandakan takes just under three hours, but there was a stark contrast in the views as we began our descent: the bright lights and skyscrapers were replaced by crystalline waters and luscious jungle.
After touching down in Sandakan, I headed to my hotel, slightly outside of the city. As we approached, the rainforest began to get thicker, and I could only just see my hotel peaking out of the greenery. I spent the first afternoon of my Borneo holiday relaxing by the pool, and taking in the sights and sounds of the surrounding jungle, appreciating the opportunity to slow down before diving into my Sabah adventure…
I was amazed by Sabah’s incredible diversity, with an astonishing range of landscapes, rich wildlife and towns that each showcased a distinct personality. Each part of Sabah that I visited offered something special, so here’s a breakdown of the areas I explored.
On my first full day in Sabah, I took the short cruise from Sandakan to Selingan Island. Borneo’s coastline offers spectacular snorkelling, so I spent the afternoon in the water, spotting plenty of tropical fish and even bumping into a turtle! My turtle encounter sparked my excitement for what was to come later that evening…
Earning the title of ‘Turtle Island’ Selingan’s coastline is a designated Turtle Conservation Area, and its beaches offer a safe place for endangered Green and Hawksbill turtles to lay their eggs. Almost every evening, turtles gradually make their way up the beach, laboriously digging a hole in the sand with their flippers, before they settle to lay their eggs. The Park Rangers then collect the eggs, transporting them safely to a hatchery, then measuring and checking over the turtles. The Park Rangers will also bring the safely hatched turtles back to the beach, and you can even witness them making their first journey down to the sea. This was a very entertaining ordeal, as they hobble down the sand, fins flailing.
The best time to see turtles in Borneo is between July and October, as the sea is calmer throughout these months, meaning turtle landings are more frequent, and the hatched turtles are often ready to be released. It is generally agreed that April to October is the best time to visit Borneo, as the weather is at its driest, although you’ll still encounter some tropical showers! Temperatures tend to be around 30°C, and these months are some of the best for wildlife encounters.
After my incredible turtle encounter the evening before, I took the short cruise back to Sandakan the next day, excited to explore the city. Sandakan is fascinating, bearing the remnants of a complicated past. Once the colonist capital of British Borneo, it was bombed heavily during the Second World War. Now rebuilt, you’ll find a bustling port and colourful markets nestled amongst the haunting war memorials and colonial mansions.
I first visited the Kampung Buli Sim Sim Water Village, a traditional Malay stilt village that was Sandakan’s original settlement. Predominantly a fishing village, you can wander the walkways, and the floating restaurants offer delicious seafood. My next stop was the city’s Central Market. The array of colourful stalls offer just about everything, with vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, clothing and souvenirs.
The final stop on my whistlestop tour of Sandakan was the Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple. Perched on top of a hill, nestled amongst the greenery, I enjoyed the incredible views over the waterfront and the jungle, and the temple is beautiful in its own right. Intricate, colourful designs adorn the exterior, and the inside is decorated of gilt Buddhas and pillars interwoven with dragons.
After exploring Sandakan, I travelled to Sepilok, journeying through the lush greenery and plantations. The Sepilok Nature Lodge was my home for the evening, and it was incredibly picturesque, with a traditional lodge perched on the water’s edge, surrounded by lush rainforest on all sides.
Excited to encounter even more of Borneo’s wildlife, I headed to Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre the next day. Since it was established in 1964, the centre has been caring for orphaned and injured orangutans, rescuing them from logging sites or where they have been kept illegally as pets.
As excited as I was, I tried to go into the experience with low expectations, unsure whether I would actually be able to spot an orangutan. The wildlife rangers also explained that if the orangutans don’t come out for feeding time, is actually an encouraging sign, as it shows they are learning to survive independently in the jungle. I wandered around the boardwalk, eagerly peering up at the forest canopy in an attempt to spot a spec of orange, but to no avail… As I approached the feeding station, however, I got lucky, as I watched an orangutan gracefully manoeuvre its way towards the platform.
As orangutans are one of the world’s most endangered primates, seeing these incredible creatures so close was a real bucket-list experience. It was fascinating to watch the orangutan feed, as it munched away on a feast of fruit, looking remarkably human-like in its mannerisms!
Just across the road is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, so I couldn’t resist popping in. Sun bears are only found in Southeast Asia, and, as the smallest species of bear on the planet, they look incredibly cute and cuddly. I learned that the species continues to be threated by deforestation and poaching, and there are very few sun bears still in the wild. The centre provides care and rehabilitation for rescued sun bears, aiming to release them back into the wild when they are ready.
Just like the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, you can wander around the board walks, spotting the bears lazing in the tree tops, and watch them from observation platforms. The best encounters happen at feeding time, but the schedule does vary, so make sure to check at the visitor’s centre!
My Borneo wildlife adventure continued as we drove to Sukau later that afternoon, where you’ll find the Kinabatangan River. I had heard that the number of wildlife species on this stretch of river was unrivalled, with the chance to see Borneo’s ‘Big 5’: orangutans, proboscis monkeys, saltwater crocodiles, rhinoceros hornbills and Bornean pygmy elephants.
Peacefully cruising down the river for two hours, I was amazed at the amount of animals and birds we were able to spot, and our guide seemed to have a sixth sense for knowing where the animals would be hiding.
Perhaps my favourite sighting was spotting proboscis monkeys. Characterised by their iconic stoic expressions and extraordinarily large noses, I learned that their noses are used to amplify their calls, a multi-purpose tool, useful for intimidating rivals or attracting a mate.
Our guide then seemed to follow suit, as he suddenly let out a strange cry! Confused but curious I waited, wondering if he’d spotted something… Just moments later, several hornbills suddenly swooped overhead, landing just metres away from the boat. I had never seen anything like it! Reminiscent of a toucan, these fascinating birds have a black and white striped tail, a large beak, and a huge red and yellow horn, protruding from their foreheads.
On the first cruise, we also spotted saltwater crocodiles, gliding ominously through the water, only their heads visible above the water. Thankfully they didn’t seem bothered by us in the slightest, and we soon headed back to the Sukau Rainforest Lodge for some dinner and an early bed, raring to come back and do it all again the next day. It is recommended to spend at least a night in Sukau, offering the opportunity to take several cruises on the Kinabatangan River, giving you ample opportunity to spot wildlife.
The morning is the best time to see birds and primates, so we ventured back out onto the river at sunrise. Amongst today’s sightings were hawk eagles, storks, hornbills and long-tailed macaque monkeys. However, I was desperate to see Borneo’s famous pygmy elephants! Knowing they are a rare sighting, I had adjusted my expectations accordingly, but following our guide’s incredible intuition, we managed to spot several of the world’s smallest elephant species, right on the riverbank!
After lunch and some time to freshen up back at the lodge, we headed back out for a night cruise, which was a completely different experience to our cruises during the day. Armed with a torch, we managed to spot species like possums and crocs. It was a little unsettling watching the crocodile’s menacing yellow eyes illuminate under torchlight… and we saw lots of creepy crawlies!
A top tip…. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife everywhere! Guided wildlife experiences like these were incredible, getting to learn about these fascinating creatures and spotting so many animals, but some of my best encounters happened when I was least expecting it, and the next morning we spotted a long-tailed macaque monkey in the treetops right above us as we walked to breakfast.
After breakfast at the rainforest lodge, I began travelling towards Kinabalu. To break up the journey, we first stopped at Kg Luanti for a unique fish massage… I’m not sure I could quite get used to the tickling sensation of the fish nibbling at my toes, but we were also educated on tagal fish conservation. A huge emphasis is placed on preserving ecosystems for future generations, and the world ‘tagal’ means ‘no fishing’ in the local KadazanDusun dialect.
Our home for the night was the Sabah Tea Garden, with cottages set amongst rolling green fields, with mountain tops as far as the eye could see. The next morning required an early wake-up, but it was well worth it to watch the sun rise over Mount Kinabalu and the tea plantations, revelling in the peace and tranquillity of the area.
I fuelled up on breakfast, ready for a busy day ahead. First, I took a tour of the tea factory learning about the entire production process and getting to sample some delicious local tea. Our next stop was the Poring Hot Springs, with bubbling sulphur pools dotted throughout the jungle. After a relaxing dip, I explored the jungle canopy, navigating walkways 100-200 feet above the forest floor… maybe one to avoid if you’re afraid of heights, although I’d argue that the views are well worth it!
We then continued to Kinabalu Park for a guided nature trek, learning about the flora and fauna of Sabah. The hike’s backdrop was breathtaking, with Mount Kinabalu’s rugged peaks jutting out of a blanket of cloud.
Later that afternoon, we headed to Kota Kinabalu for an overnight stay. The next day I had a chance to explore the city, Sabah’s state capital. Kota Kinabalu felt like a bit of a contrast to the rest of nature-rich Borneo but the city boasts lots to explore, with a busy fishing port, waterfront markets, and plenty of museums. The city really is a foodie’s paradise, and you can sample a huge range of regional Asian cuisines, with everything from street food to fine dining.
After exploring Kota Kinabalu, I headed back to the city’s port the next day, and travelled to beautiful Gaya Island by boat. After the adrenaline and adventure of my trip so far, three nights at the lavish Gaya Island Resort was exactly what I needed. Part of Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, a protected area off the coast of Borneo, the island is pristine and felt incredibly peaceful. The resort is surrounded by mangroves, coral reef, sandy beaches and jungle, so it offers a real island retreat.
When I could drag myself away from the resort’s beautiful swimming pool and the luxurious spa, I spent my time on Gaya Island snorkelling amongst the coral and marine life, hiking through the rainforest and relaxing on the island’s beautiful beaches. I even took a kayak tour through the mangroves, a fascinating ecosystem to explore. The 100-year-old mangroves felt almost otherworldly, as we glided through the networks of entangled tree roots, seemingly clamouring out of the water.
A relaxing stay at a beach resort was the perfect finale to my Sabah holiday, and I was very reluctant to leave… On my final day in Borneo, I jetted back to the mainland by speedboat, and headed back to the Kota Kinablu Airport to begin my flight home.
If you’re not already convinced, here’s a summary of my top reasons to visit Sabah…
Once-in-a-lifetime wildlife encounters: Need I say more? Witnessing the turtle landings, visiting the orangutan sanctuary, and spotting proboscis monkeys and pygmy elephants on the Kinabatangan River were amongst the best travel experiences I’ve ever had.
Breathtaking scenery: Towering Mount Kinabalu, Gaya Island’s beautiful beaches and the lush rainforests of Sepilok and Sukau were vastly different, but equally stunning.
A real sense of adventure: Sabah was incredibly welcoming and easy to explore, but the experience still felt adventurous and off the beaten track.
Incredible food: Sabah’s food scene is often overlooked, but I didn’t eat a meal that wasn’t delicious! With local seafood delicacies and noodle dishes, I was not disappointed.
Huge diversity: Sabah really did offer something for everyone, with luxury island resorts and rustic rainforest lodges, you could tailor your Sabah holiday to suit your preferences, and have an amazing time whatever you choose.
If you are interested in a trip to Sabah, check out our Sabah holiday ideas, or get in touch with our Asia Experts. They would be delighted to help you plan your perfect itinerary!
Grace is part of the Marketing Team at Freedom Destinations, having recently returned from 3 months backpacking around Australia. Her travels have also taken her to Canada, the U.S. and Thailand so far, but her travel wish list is far from complete!
