Having already enjoyed a visit to Vancouver and road trip across the Rockies, I was anxious to see more of Canada and discover the delights of the eastern coast. My Nova Scotia guidebook promised quaint coastal towns, historic lighthouses, and stunning scenic drives so I was excited to explore.
My two week Nova Scotia itinerary is outlined below, alongside reviews of some of the most popular places to visit in each region, based on my personal experiences.
An early observation of downtown Halifax is that it is perched on the water’s edge and then stretches up the hill away from the sea. Indeed, much of Halifax feels like it is on a slope!
From the waterfront, it was only a few blocks up said slope to Citadel Hill. If you need to catch your breath, you can stop at the Halifax Town Clock, a historic monument dating back to 1803, that as well as telling the time, used to act as a reference point for ships navigating Halifax Harbour.
The top of the hill is home to the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, a remarkable star-shaped fort that was built by the British, fearful of attack by the French forces. Finished in 1869, it features tall defensive ramparts, an armoury, central barracks and a large parade square.
A working military fortress until the 1950s, Halifax Citadel is now a living museum, manned by pretend soldiers in kilted uniforms, happy to share stories of the past. The high stone ramparts are also a fantastic viewpoint from which to appreciate the city and surrounding area.
The thriving social scene of Halifax is centred around the historic waterfront, with shops, restaurants and micro-breweries lining the main boardwalk. It’s all too easy to spend an afternoon here, watching the local ferries, pleasure cruisers and commercial ships come and go (and waving at fellow tourists on the amphibious Halifax Harbour Hopper!).
In between the bars and eateries is the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, well worth a few hours of your time. The museum tells many stories with accompanying artefacts, including the demise of the Titanic, and the 1917 explosion that devasted Halifax.
If you are in Halifax on a Saturday, make sure to wander along the waterfront to Halifax Seaport, where the cruise ships dock. Here you’ll find the longest continuously running farmers’ market in North America, with fresh fruit and vegetables a plenty, as well as a diverse selection of street food.
Top Tip: We chose the six hour direct flight from London Heathrow to Halifax, as it was the most convenient. If you are looking for a good deal, connections via Toronto, Montreal, Boston or even Reykjavik are also worth investigating.
The No. 7 Highway out of Halifax has helpfully been given the name “Marine Drive”, aptly describing the route it follows along Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore. Not long after leaving the city, the road becomes shrouded in trees, occasionally popping out to reveal rocky inlets, wooden bridges and freshwater lakes.
Although this isn’t one of Nova Scotia’s headline tourist routes, if you are seeking an authentic and untouched experience, then the fishing villages, historic lighthouses and remote islands along the Eastern Shore certainly deliver.
It is the short detours off the main road that are most rewarding. Not far out of Halifax, follow the signs to Lawrencetown for a beautiful beach popular with both city dwellers looking to relax, and surfers happy to embrace the chill of the Atlantic waters!
The detour to Martinique Beach Provincial Park is another worth following. The road leads to Nova Scotia’s longest sand beach, a 5 km crescent, flanked by gently sloping dunes. We stayed most of the morning, wandering along the beach and exploring the walking trails that disappear into the pine forests beyond. If we had brought a picnic lunch we would have stayed longer!
Just beyond Spry Harbour, Taylor Head Provincial Park is another untouched wilderness. From the car parks, you can follow the Spry Bay Trail, Beach Walk or Headlands Trail, for stunning views along the rocky coastline and the chance to spot sea birds and other wildlife.
Holidays to Nova Scotia and Atlantic Canada by Freedom Destinations.
Halifax | Peggy’s Cove | Baddeck | Louisbourg | Cabot Trail | Wallace | Digby | Bay of Fundy | Lunenburg
Halifax | Lunenburg | Annapolis Royal | Bay of Fundy | Wolfville | Charlottetown | Prince Edward Island National Park | Cape Breton | Cabot Trail
Halifax | Lunenburg | Kejimkujik National Park | Digby | Bay of Fundy | Kouchibouguac National Park | Charlottetown | Lake Ainslie | Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Halifax | Peggy’s Cove | Baddeck | Louisbourg | Cabot Trail | Wallace | Digby | Bay of Fundy | Lunenburg
Halifax | Lunenburg | Annapolis Royal | Bay of Fundy | Wolfville | Charlottetown | Prince Edward Island National Park | Cape Breton | Cabot Trail
Halifax | Lunenburg | Kejimkujik National Park | Digby | Bay of Fundy | Kouchibouguac National Park | Charlottetown | Lake Ainslie | Cape Breton Highlands National Park
For those seeking something a little different, at Sherbrooke Village living museum you can experience life as it was in the 19th Century. The buildings are authentically decorated and brought to life by costumed actors. It is a fun way to learn more about Nova Scotia’s heritage, especially if you delve into the visitors’ dressing up box yourself!
Top Tip: If you are heading to Cape Breton Island from Sherbrooke and would like to stick to the coast, turn off Highway 7 onto Route 211 towards Port Bickerton and Isaacs Harbour (via a short ferry crossing). Here, you can join Route 316 which loops round between Bonnet Lake Barrens and Canso Coastal Barrens Wilderness Areas.
Cape Breton Island is attached to the Nova Scotian mainland by the 1,385 metre Canso Causeway. Once across you are faced with two choices; head north to Cape Breton Highlands National Park, or south of Bras d’Or Lake towards Sydney.
Choosing the second option, you can follow the pine tree-lined Fleur-de-lis Trail, which offers ocean views as it weaves its way along Cape Breton Island’s southern coast to Louisbourg, a charming waterfront village with a fascinating history.
Guarding the harbour mouth, just south of the village, is the 17 acre Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site. Originally built by the French in the early 1700s, the fortress was twice laid siege to by the British in 1745 and 1758, before ultimately being demolished in the 1760s.
In the 1960s it was then painstakingly rebuilt by historians, with around one quarter of the original town and fortifications now complete and cared for by Parks Canada. The period buildings include barracks, shops and private homes, each portraying life during the Anglo-French struggle. Costumed staff add colour to proceedings, but be warned, if you confirm that you are British or French, the actors respond in very different ways!
You can also fire a canon or musket, and taste rum in the local tavern, though if you get too rowdy you may end up in the fortress jail! For those less keen to play along, there are five different walking trails that explore the scenery around the peninsula, including one to the historic lighthouse that dates back to the mid-1700s.
The largest town on Cape Breton Island is Sydney, a bustling commercial hub and departure point for ferries to the neighbouring island of Newfoundland and Labrador.
The peninsula to the north of Sydney is home to the world-renowned scenic highway, The Cabot Trail. If you only do one thing in Nova Scotia, then drive the Cabot Trail! The road was completed in the 1930s, to link remote fishing villages and to boost tourism to the region. It has been a Nova Scotian success story.
298 kilometres in length, the Cabot Trail clings to the shoreline and gigantic sea-cliffs each side of the peninsula as it circumnavigates Cape Breton Highlands National Park that claims the high ground in the centre.
We drove the Cabot Trail in a day, but wish we’d given ourselves more time. Whilst from your vehicle you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the mountains of the National Park, there are over 20 lookouts on the route, and numerous hiking trails allowing you to really immerse yourself in your stunning surroundings.
The 8.2 kilometre hilltop Skyline Trail is probably the best known of these, and for good reason. Located on the western side of Cape Breton Highlands National Park, it not only offers incredible views, but the chance to spot Canada’s iconic wildlife, including moose and deer that reside in the forest, eagles and falcons riding the thermals above, and whales out at sea.
And do give yourself time to stop in Baddeck, Ingonish and Cheticamp, for a coffee (or craft beer) and the small fishing villages of Neil’s Harbour and White Point where you can sample the local catch or explore the lighthouse. Depending on the time of day, you can see brightly painted fishing trawlers come back from sea and the harbour walls stacked high with lobster pots and fishing nets. Between June to September, whale watching cruises also depart, in search of humpback, minke, fin and North Atlantic right whales that frequent the waters off Cape Breton Island.
Top Tip: Baddeck is a great base from to explore Cape Breton Island, without having to take your suitcases with you. The start and finish of Cabot Trail, the village sits on the shore of Bras d’Or Lake, with guided sailing excursions available.
Back across the Canso Causeway, turn right to follow the Sunrise Trail which tracks the northern coast of the Nova Scotian mainland, known as the Northumberland Shore. Between Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island, the Northumberland Strait is relatively well protected from Atlantic weather systems, resulting in sheltered bays and gently sloping beaches to explore.
At the town of Antigonish you can divert off the main highway to follow the coast up to Cape George for spectacular views across the strait. Antigonish also lays claim to hosting the oldest Highland Games outside of Scotland, typically held early July.
Continuing west you’ll soon reach the colourful seaside town of Pictou, just the other side of a causeway across a natural harbour. Pictou was a landing point for Scottish settlers 250 years ago, with a replica of their ship, the Hector, moored in the Hector Heritage Quay on the waterfront, where there is also a museum charting their journey.
Following the maritime theme, the Northumberland Fisheries Museum highlights the importance of the fishing industry to this area. In the main building and adjacent replica 1905 wooden lighthouse, there are a variety of artifacts from shipwrecks on display, as well as a lobster hatchery where we adopted a lobster!
Top Tip: If you are looking to spend a few days on the Northumberland Shore, consider a stay at Fox Harb’r Resort, which boasts fabulous views across the strait, a beautiful golf course and incredible swimming pool.
The Bay of Fundy, which separates Nova Scotia from the neighbouring Canadian province of New Brunswick, has the highest tidal variations in the world. Twice a day, around 160 billion tonnes of seawater flow in and out, exposing the seabed in certain areas of the Minas Basin.
Driving along the coast from Truro, at the eastern end of the bay, there are several places where you can pause to view this natural phenomenon. The tide was going out when we stopped at Burntcoat Head Park, exposing the distinctive orange rocks and sand of the bay. The sea recedes by around 50 feet here, with it possible to climb down and walk across the ocean floor if you time it right. Surely the ultimate in rock pool adventures!
Scots Bay on the Cape Split peninsula is another good location for tide-watching, but if you’re seeking an adrenaline rush, head to Shubenacadie River. As the tide comes in and the river narrows, a large wave or tidal bore is created which you can surf or raft on! Several activity companies orgainse excursions.
Running adjacent to the Bay of Fundy is the Annapolis Valley. Not only is this a particularly picturesque area of Nova Scotia; a green valley sandwiched between the mountains and the sea, but it is also home to some of the most fertile land in the province. In particular, the valley is well known for its fruit orchards and vineyards, and to visit without sampling the award-winning produce would be a crime!
As well as family friendly pick-your-own apple and strawberry farms, the Annapolis Cider Company has multiple tasting rooms along the valley, and craft producers such as ‘No Boats on Sunday’ offer cosy and laid back sampling sessions.
There are also plenty of vineyards located throughout the Annapolis Valley. The award-winning Domaine de Grand Pré is particularly picturesque with its French-inspired architecture, but perhaps the most photographed in the whole of Nova Scotia is Luckett’s where a British red phone box stands proudly amongst the vines.
The Bay of Fundy offers another gift to visitors to Nova Scotia; it’s one of the best places in the world to go whale watching. Between June and October, its waters become a prime feeding ground for humpback, minke, fin and North Atlantic right whales, with cruises in search of these magnificent marine mammals departing from Digby Neck and Brier Island. Dolphins and seals are also often spotted, as well as puffins, gannets, razorbills and guillemots around Brier Island.
Top Tip: Although not on many people’s list of things to do in Nova Scotia, don’t just drive past the Annapolis Royal Generating Station. It was the world’s first tidal power plant and on a short tour you can learn about the innovative technology created to generate electricity from the tides.
As you reach the far end of Nova Scotia, there is noticeable change in colours along the shore. It is along this stretch of coastline towards the town of Yarmouth, where the beaches shift from the orange hues found around the Bay of Fundy, to the white sands of the Acadian Shores. Mavillette and Port Maitland beaches are fine examples and, protected from the biggest waves, are great for swimming too.
The headland that protects the harbour town of Yarmouth is home to one of Nova Scotia’s most recognisable lighthouses. With a central core that is narrower in the middle than at the top or base, the Cape Forchu Lighthouse has been affectionately described as an apple core and is a popular subject for photographers. There has been a lighthouse at Cape Forchu since 1840 and it is easy to see why. The rocky promontory provides panoramic views both out to sea and along the coast in both directions. We visited in the evening to catch the sunset – simply sensational!
The town of Yarmouth itself is home to a picturesque harbour, usually packed with various boats and yachts, and a colourful waterfront with boutique shops and restaurants. As well as its maritime themed museums and displays, the Firefighters Museum of Nova Scotia is well worth a visit, to admire the vintage fire trucks and equipment, and for a captivating insight into the history and challenges of firefighting in a remote location like Nova Scotia.
The French colonial influence on this part of Nova Scotia is clear, from the language, place names and even architecture. Acadia was originally settled by the French in the early 17th Century, before the British took charge in the mid-18th Century and expelled anyone unwilling to swear allegiance to the Crown. Many returned however when British rule waned, re-instating their cultural traditions. Their story is wonderfully told at ‘Le Village Historique Acadien’ near the town of West Pubnico.
Top Tip: The eastern end of Nova Scotia is a star-gazers dream. Locations including Cape Forchu, Ellenwood Lake and the Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site have been given ‘Starlight Tourist Status’ and you can join a guide to lay back and learn more about the universe.
Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site is just as worth visiting during the day as it is at night. In the centre of the province, the park protects lush forests, still lakes, wetlands and the native Mi’kmaq culture. Along the southern shore, a separate part of the park preserves saltmarshes, sand dunes, cliffs and beaches.
Beyond Kejimkujik, the impressive coastal scenery continues along Nova Scotia’s southern shore. At White Point we followed a hiking trail though light woodland to a beautiful beach. Whilst the sea had some surf, it was good for swimming, kayaking and other water sports.
The historic town of Lunenburg has received UNESCO heritage listing for its well-preserved and colourful 18th Century architecture. Wander through the old town and you will pass buildings such as the Lunenburg Academy, with its intricate woodwork that fights for attention with its vibrant paint colour. If she’s in harbour, a two-hour cruise on the iconic tall ship Bluenose II, a replica of a famous racing schooner, is a must.
Continuing east, you’ll reach Mahone Bay, known for its three waterfront churches, before Peggy’s Cove and the most photographed lighthouse in Canada. Supposedly named after a shipwreck survivor, this charming fishing village comprises colourful houses, art galleries and a fine selection of seafood restaurants. The harbour is crammed with fishing boats, overlooked by the lighthouse which sits atop hard granite rocks. It’s a scene that has inspired countless artists, writers and, more recently, Instagrammers!
Top Tip: As you would expect, seafood dominates the menus of most Nova Scotian restaurants. Although not officially the ‘National Dish’, before you depart make sure to try a ‘Nova Scotia Lobster Roll’, a simple, but celebrated, culinary offering, combining freshly cooked lobster meat with mayonnaise and seasoning in a soft bun.
Ending our journey at Peggy’s Cove felt like a fitting summary for our time in Nova Scotia; the rugged beauty of the shoreline and maritime heritage of the harbour combining in the shining light of the iconic lighthouse.
My guidebook promised quaint coastal towns, a rich history and stunning scenic drives. Nova Scotia certainly delivered on these, and so much more. Nova Scotians are wonderfully welcoming and naturally proud of their province. I will be returning soon.
Richard has more than 25 years of experience working within the travel industry. He has travelled widely in the USA, Australia and Africa and enjoys exploring National Parks and other wilderness areas.
