In the heart of The Outback, roughly halfway between Adelaide and Darwin (but still 1500km from either) lies the quintessentially Australian town of Alice Springs. Sitting on the banks of the Todd River, dry for most of the year, and overlooked by the red peaked mountains of the MacDonnell Ranges, Alice Springs may sound an inhospitable place to visit. However, “The Alice”, as she is known to locals, is a thriving outback hub, offering a warm welcome to visitors, and it is the perfect gateway to Australia’s famous Red Centre.
Although possible, it is unlikely that many people will arrive in Alice Springs by car from another state. Distances in the outback are vast, so most visitors to Alice Springs will arrive by plane.
The town’s domestic airport (ASP) is well connected with most Australian cities. Sydney, Melbourne, and Brisbane are around a three-hour flight away, whilst flights from Darwin and Adelaide take just two hours to reach Alice Springs. There are also domestic flights from most of the major Australian cities direct to the airport at Uluru (Ayers Rock), however people should be aware that this still leaves a long five-hour drive from Uluru to Alice Springs.
Perhaps the most romantic way to arrive in Alice Springs is by train. Alice Spring marks the midpoint of The Ghan train route that links Adelaide to Alice Springs and Alice Springs to Darwin. Named after the Afghan camel trains that made the epic journey before the train line was built, The Ghan travels nearly 2000 miles through the Australian outback, stopping at Alice Springs and Katherine in the Northern Territory. Travelling in private sleeper cabins and dining in elegant restaurant cars, whilst the scenery changes from green to red (in either direction), enables you to arrive in comfort. The train station in Alice Springs is in the centre of downtown, making it the perfect drop-off point for most hotels and other accommodation in Alice Springs.
With a unique pioneering history and a strong Aboriginal heritage, as well as wide panoramic landscapes with an abundance of outdoor activities, Alice Springs has a lot to entertain a multitude of visitors.
A good first stop for all visitors is Anzac Hill. To the north end of town, the hill offers a great perspective on Alice Springs with views right across the low-rise town. A moderate 15 minute walk takes you to the top of the hill, where it is also possible to view the memorial to all those that have served in Australia’s armed forces.
Of equal importance to the remote community around the Northern Territory is the Royal Flying Doctor Service, and their original base in Alice Springs, is now an informative and interactive museum, telling the story from its commencement in 1939 through to the modern day.
On the northern edge of town, visitors can find the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station. Established in 1871, to relay messages between Darwin and Adelaide by an overland telegraph line, the telegraph station, marks the original site of the first European settlement in Alice Springs. Guided tours of the station explain how the revolutionary telegraph line enabled messages to be sent from Adelaide to London in a matter of hours, rather than the months it took by boat.
Wildlife lovers may be fortunate enough to witness wild emu strutting down the Alice Springs High Street, but for a more controlled animal encounter, there are two locations that will be most rewarding. The Alice Springs Reptile Centre has more than 100 residents, the majority of which you probably wouldn’t want to meet in the outback, but here you can wander safely past various snakes, goannas and even a saltwater crocodile. It is possible to feed and handle certain species, and you can watch geckos and thorny devils in their natural habitat, when they are almost impossible to spot in the wild.
For a wildlife experience a little cuddlier, a visit to the Alice Springs Kangaroo Sanctuary is always rewarding. The sanctuary cares for rescued and orphaned red kangaroos of all ages, and it is possible to join a guided tour in the late afternoon (when the kangaroos are active) where knowledgeable staff will introduce you to the different kangaroo characters. It may even be possible to hold and feed a hand-reared joey. The sanctuary was featured in a TV series called “Kangaroo Dundee” and is very popular, so it is important to book your visit in advance.
An ancient landscape, weathered over time to create mountains, gorges and waterholes, stretch out to the west of Alice Springs. Less than an hour’s drive from town, Tjoritja (West MacDonnell National Park) is a range of mountains that stretches for 100 miles across the outback. As well as being a haven for desert-adapted wildlife and rare plants, the park holds a number of permanent waterholes, vital for survival in the outback. They are also a great place to cool off during a journey on one of the many hiking trails through the park. In particular, Ellery Creek, Ormiston Gorge and Redbank Gorge are great for a swim.
The most famous walking trail in the park is the Larapinta Trail that follows a route of nearly 140 miles across the mountain range, however there are plenty of more moderate trails to follow as well. A popular trail takes you to Simpsons Gap (just over 10 miles from Alice) where a distinct narrow break in the mountains, features towering cliffs and a permanent waterhole.
Accessible only by 4×4 vehicle, the Finke Gorge National Park is a 90-mile drive from Alice Springs, but it is home to one of the outback’s most important wilderness reserves. The Finke River, that flows through the park, is believed to date back 350 million years (making it one of the oldest rivers in the world!) and the rare palms that shelter alongside it are thought to date back to when the whole of the Northern Territory was covered by lush, green tropical forests. The gorge area itself features high red cliffs that tower over the red gum trees and still waterholes, all accessible along sandy walking trails and rocky paths.
Much like its westerly twin, the East MacDonnell Range stretches for nearly 100 miles to the east of Alice Springs. The first half of the mountain range is accessible on tarmac roads, making it a good choice for a day trip from Alice. The “East Macs” are home to Aboriginal rock paintings that tell the story of how Alice Springs and the area around it was initially formed. Emily Gap and Jessie Gap, less than 10 miles from Alice Springs, are sacred sites of the local Arrernte people, but it is still possible to walk along the shady creek to view the hand art on the rock wall.
Perhaps the most impressive way to view the area around Alice Springs is to join an Outback Balloon Flight. These early morning departures make the most of the cool morning air and the colours of sunrise to provide a different view of Alice Springs and surrounding landscapes. From altitudes of up to 1000 feet above the outback, it is possible to appreciate the scale of the mountain ranges, the size of the cattle stations and the true colours of the outback.
Holidays in the Northern Territory by Freedom Destinations
For many visitors arriving in Alice Springs, it is the starting point for a Northern Territory outback safari. Alice Springs is a great base from which to then explore the iconic red rocks formations of Uluru (Ayers Rock), Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) and Kings Canyon. There are two distinct routes available for making the drive from Alice to Uluru, although one requires a 4×4 vehicle, whilst the other is sealed roads all the way. With the right vehicle it makes for an exceptional driving loop, but it is still possible to visit all the major sights sticking to the tarmac.
The Red Centre Way, is the name given to the route between Alice Springs and the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. The most common route is head south out of Alice on the Stuart Highway, before turning right onto the Lasseter Highway. Although the journey can be done in around five hours, it will usually take longer, and it shouldn’t be undertaken in darkness as wildlife will be active and frequently cross the road.
The more adventurous route follows the Mereenie Loop that snakes past the West MacDonnell and Finke Gorge National Parks and continues west beyond the range of sealed roads. It is here that a 4×4 vehicle is required as the quality of the unmade road varies, however, the loop provides spectacular outback scenery. A good stopping point is Gosse Bluff, where it is possible to view across the landscape from the top of an ancient impact crater, created by a meteorite many years ago. Eventually the sandy road loops south towards Kings Canyon. From Kings Canyon to Uluru is back on sealed road.
Watarrka National Park is the home of Kings Canyon, where mighty red sandstone cliffs rise 300 metres above palm-filled crevices and the valley floor. To best view the Kings Canyon follow the signs for the Kings Canyon Rim Walk. This 4-mile hike takes in “The Garden of Eden”, a stunning rock hole that is surrounded by rare flora, before ascending to the top of the canyon for panoramic views over the surrounding coloured sands. Other memorable features along the walk include the weathered rock domes of “The Lost City” and “Priscilla’s Crack” a location for filming the movie Priscilla Queen of the Desert. To avoid the heat of the outback it is recommended to make these hikes either at the start or end of the day, so staying near to Kings Canyon is a good option.
Around 25 miles west of Uluru, the vast rock domes of Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) loom in to view. At sunrise and sunset, the rocks appear to change shade and shadows create patterns on the ochre-coloured rock formations. Some of the best views can be had from the dune viewing area, where 360 degree views, make the rock outcrop even more of an anomaly. Probably the best walking trail is the “Valley of the winds walk”, which takes you between the domes and along creek beds, offering breathtaking views.
Uluru (Ayers Rock) is an icon of the Australian outback and one of the greatest wonders of the natural world. Towering 348 metres above the surrounding bushland, Uluru is a large monolith believed to be around 550 million years old. Particularly captivating at sunrise and sunset, the changing colours of the sandstone demand multiple viewings. Uluru is not only a spectacular natural sandstone formation, but also a deeply spiritual place for the local Aboriginal people. It is possible to join a walk around the base of Uluru with one of the Anangu people, who can tell their stories of Dreamtime and how to live in this harsh but awe-inspiring landscape.
“My favourite memory from my time in Alice Springs has to be the outback balloon flight” remembers Amber, one of Freedom Destinations Australia travel experts. “It was beautiful. The red sands really start to glow and the shadows of the mountains gradually recede as the sun gets higher. Once the burners are off, it is serene. You just float whilst you take in the epic views.”
“The Red Centre is one of the cornerstones of the traditional Sydney, Rock & Reef, Australia travel itinerary” says Amber, “and with good flight connections from all the other cities too, Alice Springs is the ideal gateway to start exploring.”
To speak with Amber or any of FREEDOM’s Australia Experts about visiting Alice Springs on your next Australia holiday please get in touch.
Richard has more than 25 years of experience working within the travel industry. He has travelled widely in the USA, Australia and Africa and enjoys exploring National Parks and other wilderness areas.
